Amalfi – Pontone - Torre dello Siro – Scala – Atrani – Amalfi
time 4 hours
The walk begins from the centre of Amalfi and leads to the old tower called “Torre dello Ziro” which stands high on the rock dominating Amalfi. From Piazza Duomo follow the main street upwards for some 400 meters as far as an island traffic divider. There is a stairway on the right immediately after this which marks the beginning of the Salita dei Patroni which is to be followed for some 300m as far as another stairway which ascends towards the right passing beneath a large building. This is the way up to Pontone to be followed as far as a junction . Here take the right and then right again at the following fork. Terminated a short stretch of flat terrain, the route affords a steep stairway leading to an area where the remains of ancient fortifications are discernable. Finally the path leads to the summit of Monte Aureo and the ruins of Castello di Scalelle , built in 1480. Further ahead there is a view point, unfortunately marred by the inevitable addition of unfinished concrete “improvements”. In order to reach the Torre dello Zirro it is necessary to keep to the left at the end of the steps which access the area, following initially a downhill slope which clings to the left of the rock face, looking out seaward. The path leads to the Torre, built in Aragonese style. The name derives from the word “ziri” which are large terracotta containers used for the conservation of foodstuffs. The story goes that the Duchess Giovanna of Aragona was imprisoned and killed in the tower. The view form the tower is quite unforgettable and amply compensates the effort of the climb.
On the return journey the trail goes in the direction of the church of Santa Maria del Carmine by the way of the steps which lead to Monte Aureo; this time, however it is necessary to proceed straight on as far as the covered vaulted portico belonging to the church. Further ahead the route returns to the road and after a few meters you must take the stairway to the left which lead to the little square of Pontone and its church of San Giovnni Battista ( inside the tomb of Filippo Spina dating back to 1346, with some little dogs at his feet). Leaving the church take the stairway up left to then fork right at a small fountain. Continuing to the right the path comes to the ruins of the Church of Sant’ Eustachio ( X11 century) where three apses with inlayed laced archways can be seen. Continuing upward the path leads to the Church of The Annunziata, this also dating back to X11 century. Further up the route meets the tarmac road, to be followed downwards to the main square of Scala and the Duomo of San Lorenzo. The Duomo dates back to the X11 century but was rebuilt in 1615. Of the original building, only the Romanesque doorway remains. On leaving the Duomo retrace one’s steps left and after about 200 meters take the steps left which lead down into the Valle del Dragone.
Taking the steps to the right in the direction of a large building towards the bend in the road, which must be followed down to the left as far as the junction with the road coming up from Amalfi. Proceed right again at this point and after a wide bend wit a ceramics shop on the corner you will see a wide footpath on the right, signposted though not too clearly “ per Amalfi”. At this point the path leads down into the Valle del Dragone; valley taking its name from the torrent which over the centuries has carved its passage in the rock. Vigorously green and wild , the valley was once the site of the industrial zone of Atrani to which the ruins of mills, and paper works stand in testimonial and accompany the length of the walk.
Bypass the church of San Michele “fuori le mura “ ( outside the walls) in the rock and further ahead the Chiesa del Carmine. Here begins the village of Atrani with its labyrinth of alleys and stairways. At liberty here to choose the most attractive route remember only to keep descending in the direction of the sea. At the bottom, in the Piazza Umberto 1 stands the singular church of San Salvatore de’ Birecto which in the period of the duchies was the venue for the investiture ceremony of the Dukes of Amalfi.
Following the indications for the same you will come out in the square of Atrani. Continue, turning one’s back to the fountain and taking the steps which pass beneath the houses. These lead into something of a labyrinth so it is useful to remember to keep left and/or keep going upwards ( be careful not to take the left hand steps which lead back to the square.) Some ten minutes further on the route leads to via Santa Maria del Signore which, following the mountain face leads right back to Amalfi. After a right hand junction the route leads to the bottom of the lane where a stairway takes one to an open space overlooking the Church of San Francesco. This was once part of the convent of the same name founded by the Saint in 1222 which today is a hotel ( Hotel Luna) In order to return to the Piaza Duomo ther are two alternatives. Either take the steps to the right of the church, which lead to the road , or, leaving the church behind you , take the little Vicolo Roberto il Guiscardo which likewise returns to the road but is a shadier and more attractive walk.
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